Balsam Root is in full bloom in the Deschutes River Canyon right now.
I got out of the Subaru Sunday morning and took a big breath of dry, sagebrush-scented Deschutes River Canyon air.
I took another big breath, pulled on my waders, grabbed my rod and started walking. Just 24 hours before, I was immersed in the PowerBait-scented craziness of Opening Day. Lots of people, lots of boats, lots of socializing -- but not much elbow room and no fishing.
Now, 24 hours and 200 miles later, I found myself slowly walking along my favorite river on the planet -- and scanning for fish. It was blustery and chilly when I left Hood River an hour earlier, but it was warm, windless and lonely in the Deschutes River Canyon near Maupin.
I suspect that plenty of anglers were upstream pounding the Warm Springs to Trout Creek stretch, which opened on Saturday. That section of the river has more trout per mile than the section just downstream of Maupin -- probably because it's closer to the dam outflow, has more shoal water and probably more trout food.
I can't wait to fish the upper part of the Lower Deschutes, but that can wait a week or two.
The Deschutes River near Maupin is still great -- especially when the water is lonely. I suspect this was one of the last quiet weekends on this part of the Deschutes. Whitewater rafting companies are getting cranked up -- I saw a few rafts going downstream -- and that means weekend crowds in Maupin.
There can never be too many wild trout in my life, and I decided Sunday morning to hike an unfamiliar section of the river and prospect for redsides rainbow trout. I'm trying to learn more parts of the river upstream and downstream of Maupin, and there is no better way to learn this river -- any river -- than to put on polarized sunglasses, get up high on the bank and start that slow walk.
There is no worse way to learn a river than to float along in a driftboat -- and I love my driftboat. I think the sheer pleasure of drifting a river makes it hard to stop, get out and prospect a long bank for trout. Long walks taught me where Deschutes trout live, what they like to eat and when they eat it.
Walking a tall bank is fun. The osprey-eye view reveals riffles, dropoffs, current seams, foam lines -- and the shadowy shapes of trout. Happily, I found trout rising to crippled Grammon caddisflies in a small, foamy eddy -- the fish looked like black shadows in the clear, greenish water.
I bungled a few casts while figuring out the eddy currents, but one silly fish -- OK, a nice silly fish -- tipped and sipped my size 14 olive X-Caddis. The fish charged through the eddy and put down all the other trout, but my head was buzzing along with my reel.
This gorgeous, turbocharged Deschutes River redsides rainbow is in perfect shape -- and fooled me into thinking a bigger -- but not better -- fish was on the line. They are the world's prettiest trout -- at least to me.
A good start to the day made me want to scamper along the bank and find more rising trout, but I resisted temptation and kept to a slow walk -- and lots of slow looks. I was looking for spots that always hold trout -- especially spots that are a little walk from the road -- or down a steep, nasty bank.
Learning a river is almost as fun as fishing a river. I've fished the Deschutes like a maniac since the early 1980s, but I'm still learning new spots. And this river changes from year to year, and some of my favorite spots now only exist in my memories.
Yet, sometimes the spots come back after vanishing for a year or two or three. Backeddies can get washed out during high water, and it takes the river a few years to rebuild them.
I explored both sides of the river, so there was more hiking than fishing. I ran a size 14 bead-head pheasant tail through some current seams and dropoffs, and the trout are really looking for caddis pupa and mayfly nymphs. Lots of takes -- and the usual blunders and small successes of a typical nymphing session.
I dream of becoming an ultra-focused, ultra-efficient nympher, but rising fish often tempt me away from dedicated staring at my Thingamabobber. I did turn over a few underwater rocks in fast, rocky runs -- and found quite a few salmonfly nymphs near shore. I tied a Brooks Stone on and ran it through a deep, rocky run right next to the bank, and one nice fish walloped the fly, hit the current seam and came off.
My thoughts wandered as I walked, took notes and made casts. One fish will stick in my mind for a long time.
I cast the bead-head Pheasant Tail into a seam just below a bend in the riverbank, and that fat little Thingamabobber -- I swear I don't get any money from that company -- vanished. I set up, and the fish rocketed into the seam and headed downstream.
I was into my backing -- and expecting to see an 18-inch or better rainbow trout -- when a smaller fish wallowed at the surface. It was one of those 14-inch long Deschutes River speedster trout that are in perfect condition and know how to use the currents. I always think of those fish as the muscled sprinters -- 200 meter sprinters -- of the trout world.
Yellow-and-green Balsam root bloomed along the banks and on the steep canyon sides, and I frittered away some time shooting photos. I love this river when it's lonely and fishy, and that's happening right now.
But it won't stay that way for long -- salmonfly madness will be in full swing in a month or less....